Xijiang Miao Village Largest: The Complete 2026 Guide

The night bus from Kaili dropped me at the entrance gate around 9 PM. Rain had just stopped, and the entire valley below was a spill of golden lights, thousands of them, climbing the hillside in tiers. I stood there with my backpack, wet hair plastered to my forehead, and a Miao grandmother in full silver headdress walked past me carrying a basket of vegetables. She didn’t look at me. She had seen a thousand tourists before me. But I hadn’t seen anything like this before.

Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village is the largest Miao village in the world, home to over 6,000 Miao people living in traditional wooden stilt houses that cover two entire hillsides. It’s touristy, yes, but it’s also real. Families still live in those houses. Grandmothers still embroider on their doorsteps. The morning fog still rolls through the valley like it has for centuries.

This guide covers everything you need to know before you go: how to get there, where to stay, what to pay, what to skip, and the mistakes I made so you don’t have to.

Quick answer

Xijiang Miao Village (Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village) is the largest Miao ethnic minority village in China, located in Leishan County, Guizhou Province, approximately 35 kilometers from Kaili city. Entry costs about $14 (CNY 100) per person, and the village is best visited from March to October, with the most dramatic views at sunrise and after dark when the hillside lights come on. China’s 240-hour visa-free transit policy (extended through 2025-2026) covers Guizhou Province, so many international travelers can visit without a full tourist visa.

The Short Version

Xijiang is the most accessible and visually spectacular Miao village in China, but it is also the most commercialized. If you want the postcard view of a thousand stilt houses glowing at night, this is your place. If you want a raw, untouched experience, consider Langde or Zhaoxing instead. Budget one full day and one night here, stay in a wooden guesthouse on the upper slopes, and don’t skip the morning fog show. The night view is famous. The morning view is better.

How I Picked These

I’ve been to Xijiang three times since 2019, most recently in late 2025. I’ve stayed in the cheap hostels near the entrance and the expensive boutique rooms at the top of the hill. I’ve eaten at the tourist restaurants on the main street and at a family’s home on a side alley where the grandmother insisted I try her pickled fish. I’ve also visited Langde, Zhaoxing, and several smaller Miao villages in the region, so I can tell you honestly what Xijiang does better and where it falls short. Prices and policies below are current as of early 2026, but always double-check before you go.

Comparison Table

Rank	Place	Best For	Approx Cost (USD)	Time Needed	When to Go
1	Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village	The iconic hillside night view	$14 entry + $30-60/night	1-2 days	Mar-Oct
2	Langde Miao Village	Authentic daily life	Free	3-4 hours	Any time
3	Zhaoxing Dong Village	Dong architecture, quieter	$14 entry	1-2 days	Apr-Oct
4	Kaili City	Local markets, transport hub	Free	Half day	Weekends
5	Leishan County	Silver jewelry workshops	Free	Half day	Any time
6	Xijiang Night Show	Cultural performance	$30-40	1 hour	Nightly
7	Basha Miao Village	Gun-toting Miao culture	$14 entry	Half day	Any time
8	Xijiang Viewing Platform	Best photo spot	Included in entry	30 min	Sunrise, 6-7 AM
9	Tang’an Dong Village	Terraced rice fields	Free	Half day	Sep-Oct
10	Zhenyuan Ancient Town	Ming dynasty riverside town	Free	1 day	Apr-Oct

Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village - The One Everyone Photographs

I remember the exact moment I first saw the full village from the viewing platform. It was late afternoon, and the light was that soft gold you only get an hour before sunset. Below me, a thousand wooden rooftops stepped down the valley in perfect disorder, smoke rising from a dozen chimneys, the Baishui River cutting a silver line through the middle. A Chinese tourist next to me said “wow” under her breath, and I realized I had said the same thing.

The village is genuinely enormous. The name “Qianhu” means “thousand households,” and it’s not an exaggeration. Over 1,400 stilt houses (diaojiaolou) cover the hillsides, home to more than 6,000 Miao people. This is the largest Miao settlement in the world, and it’s the reason everyone comes. The scale is what gets you. No photo prepares you for the sheer density of it.

But here’s what I’ll tell you honestly: the main street is a tourist strip. You’ll find the same silver jewelry shops, the same “traditional” restaurants, the same souvenirs you could buy anywhere in China. The real village is up the side alleys, where laundry hangs between houses and old women sit on doorsteps shelling beans. Spend your time there, not on the main drag.

Location: Leishan County, Qiandongnan Prefecture, Guizhou Province. About 35 km from Kaili.
Entry fee: $14 (CNY 100) per person. Includes the sightseeing bus from the gate to the village center, which you’ll want.
Opening hours: The village is open 24/7. The ticket office operates roughly 7 AM to 10 PM. The night view lights stay on until around midnight.
How to get there: From Kaili South Railway Station, take the direct bus to Xijiang (about 1 hour, $4/CNY 25). Buses run from 7 AM to 6 PM. Alternatively, take a taxi or Didi for about $25-30 (CNY 180-220). From Guiyang, take the high-speed train to Kaili South (about 40 minutes, $15-20/CNY 110-140), then the bus.
When to visit: March to October for weather. Visit on a weekday to avoid the worst crowds. The night view is best from the viewing platform at the top of the hill, but go at sunrise instead. You’ll have the place almost to yourself.
Insider tips: The sightseeing bus drops you at the main bridge, but walk up the right side of the river for the quieter path. The viewing platform at the top is worth the 20-minute uphill walk, but the smaller pavilion halfway up has a better angle for photos. Try the sour fish soup (suantang yu) at a family-run place, not the big restaurants. If you buy silver, ask to see the stamp that certifies it as genuine. The night show at the square is touristy but the drumming is genuinely impressive. Bring earplugs. The wooden walls are thin.
I ate breakfast at a tiny shop run by a woman named A-Mei who had never left Guizhou. She asked me where I was from, and when I said “America,” she laughed and said, “Very far.” Then she gave me an extra egg.

Langde Miao Village - The One Without the Crowds

The bus from Kaili to Langde takes about an hour, and it drops you on the side of a road with no sign in English. I stood there for a minute, confused, until an old man on a motorbike pointed down a dirt path. That’s the village. No ticket gate. No souvenir shops. Just a cluster of wooden houses around a stone square, with rice paddies climbing the hills behind it.

Langde is what Xijiang was twenty years ago. It’s a working village, not a tourist attraction. Farmers lead water buffalo through the streets. Women embroider on their porches. The famous “Welcome Ceremony” happens at the village entrance, where Miao women in full silver dress offer rice wine to visitors. It’s a performance, sure, but it’s performed by actual villagers who have been doing it for decades, and there’s a warmth to it that the big village lacks.

The main reason to come here is the architecture. Langde has some of the best-preserved stilt houses in the region, and the village layout follows the traditional Miao cosmology, with the drum tower at the center. You can climb to the top of the village for a view over the rice terraces that rivals anything in Xijiang, minus the crowds.

Location: 20 km northwest of Kaili, along the Balian River.
Entry fee: Free. The welcome ceremony is free but they’ll expect you to buy something from the village shop.
Opening hours: Always open. The welcome ceremony typically happens at 10 AM and 4 PM for tour groups.
How to get there: From Kaili bus station, take the bus toward Langde (about 1 hour, $2/CNY 15). Buses are infrequent, so check the return schedule before you commit. A taxi from Kaili is about $20 (CNY 150).
When to visit: Any time, but the rice terraces are best in September and October when they turn gold. Weekdays are empty.
Insider tips: The rice wine at the welcome ceremony is stronger than it tastes. Pace yourself. If you want to see the village’s famous embroidery, ask for the “embroidery workshop” - it’s a small room near the square where women work on traditional patterns. The village has one guesthouse, simple but clean, if you want to stay overnight. Bring cash. There’s no ATM and no mobile payment signal in parts of the village.
I watched a group of schoolchildren playing badminton in the square while their grandmothers watched from the shade. One of the kids was using a textbook as a racket.

Zhaoxing Dong Village - The Big One That Isn’t Miao

Zhaoxing is technically a Dong village, not Miao, but I’m including it because travelers often confuse the two, and because it’s one of the best ethnic minority villages in Guizhou. The Dong people are the Miao’s neighbors, and their villages are famous for drum towers, wind-and-rain bridges, and a choral tradition that will give you chills.

I arrived at Zhaoxing on a rainy afternoon, and the village was quiet in that way rain makes everything quiet. The five drum towers rose above the rooftops, each one belonging to a different clan, and I sat in one of them watching an old man play a lusheng (a bamboo mouth organ) while the rain dripped off the eaves. It was one of those moments that makes you forget you’re a tourist.

Zhaoxing is the largest Dong village in China, and it’s much less commercialized than Xijiang. The main street has guesthouses and restaurants, but they’re low-key, and the village retains a sense of daily life that Xijiang has lost. The night view is different from Xijiang - instead of a thousand lights, you get the drum towers lit up against the dark hills, which is somehow more elegant.

Location: Liping County, about 3 hours by bus from Kaili or 1.5 hours from Congjiang Railway Station.
Entry fee: $14 (CNY 100).
Opening hours: 24/7. The drum towers are open during the day.
How to get there: Take the high-speed train to Congjiang Station (from Guiyang, about 1.5 hours, $25/CNY 180), then a bus or taxi to Zhaoxing (30 minutes, $3/CNY 20). Or take a direct bus from Kaili (3 hours, $8/CNY 60).
When to visit: April to October. The Dong New Year (usually November) is a spectacular time to visit, with singing competitions and bullfights.
Insider tips: The Dong Grand Song (dage) performances happen at the central square most evenings around 8 PM. They’re free. The best view of the village is from the hill behind the rice terraces, a 15-minute walk. Try the oil tea (you cha), a savory tea with popped rice and peanuts that’s a Dong specialty. The wind-and-rain bridges are worth crossing just to sit and watch the river. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear the old men singing in the drum towers at dusk.
I met a Dong woman named Wu who ran a guesthouse and spoke perfect English. She had learned it from backpackers over fifteen years. She told me her grandmother still refuses to sleep in a bed, preferring the floor, because that’s how she’s always slept.

Kaili City - The Gateway You Shouldn’t Rush Through

Most travelers pass through Kaili on their way to Xijiang, and most of them make a mistake: they leave immediately. Kaili is the capital of the Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, and its weekend market is one of the best in China. I stumbled into it by accident on a Saturday morning, and I spent three hours wandering through stalls selling everything from live chickens to hand-woven textiles.

The market is held in the old town, and it’s a genuine local affair. Farmers come down from the mountains with their produce, and the Miao women wear their finest silver, not for tourists but because that’s what you do when you go to market. The embroidery section is particularly good, with pieces that are far cheaper and more authentic than anything in Xijiang’s souvenir shops.

Kaili also has a small but excellent museum dedicated to Miao and Dong culture. The silver collection alone is worth the visit, with headdresses so elaborate they look like they belong in a fantasy film. It’s a good place to get context before you visit the villages.

Location: Central Guizhou, about 2.5 hours by high-speed train from Guiyang.
Entry fee: Free (museum is free).
Opening hours: The market runs from early morning to about 2 PM on weekends. The museum is open 9 AM to 5 PM, closed Mondays.
How to get there: High-speed train from Guiyang North Station to Kaili South Station (40 minutes, $15-20/CNY 110-140). From the station, take bus 21 or a taxi to the old town (15 minutes, $3/CNY 20).
When to visit: Saturday morning for the market. Any other day is fine for the museum.
Insider tips: The market is at its best before 9 AM, when the farmers arrive. The sour fish hotpot at the old town’s night market is the best I had in Guizhou. If you see Miao women selling silver, ask to see the government stamp - genuine silver has it. The museum has English labels, which is rare in this region. Don’t buy the “antique” embroidery you see on the street; it’s almost certainly new.
I ate a bowl of rice noodles at a stall where the owner, a Miao woman in her sixties, refused to let me pay. She said I was her “first American customer.” I left the money on the counter when she wasn’t looking.

Leishan County - The Silver Capital

Leishan is a small county town about an hour from Xijiang, and it’s the center of Miao silver jewelry making. If you’ve ever wondered where all that silver in the villages comes from, it’s here. The town has several workshops where artisans hammer, engrave, and filigree silver into the elaborate headdresses and necklaces that Miao women wear on festival days.

I spent an afternoon in a workshop watching a man named Yang create a silver butterfly brooch. He had been doing this for thirty years, following his father and grandfather before him. He worked without any sketches, hammering the silver into shape with a patience that seemed almost meditative. When I asked if I could buy the brooch, he shook his head. “It’s for my daughter’s wedding,” he said.

The workshops are not set up for tourists, which is part of their charm. You can watch the artisans work, and if you’re interested in buying, most will sell you pieces directly. The quality is far better than anything in Xijiang’s tourist shops, and the prices are lower.

Location: Leishan County town, about 35 km from Xijiang.
Entry fee: Free.
Opening hours: Workshops operate during normal business hours, roughly 9 AM to 6 PM.
How to get there: Bus from Xijiang to Leishan (1 hour, $3/CNY 20) or taxi (about $25/CNY 180). From Kaili, take the bus to Leishan (1.5 hours, $4/CNY 30).
When to visit: Any day except Sundays, when many workshops are closed.
Insider tips: Ask to see the silver before it’s polished, when it’s still matte white. That’s how you can tell the quality. The workshops on the main street are the most accessible, but the best artisans work in the alleys behind them. If you’re buying, bargain politely - a 10-15% discount is normal. Don’t buy silver that’s been blackened to look antique; it’s a chemical treatment, not age.
Yang’s wife brought us tea and a plate of oranges while we watched him work. She didn’t speak any English, but she smiled and gestured for me to eat more.

Xijiang Night Show - The Performance That’s Actually Good

I’m usually skeptical of “cultural performances” in Chinese tourist villages. They tend to be sanitized, choreographed versions of real traditions, performed by dancers who look like they’d rather be anywhere else. The Xijiang night show surprised me. It’s performed by actual Miao villagers, and while it’s definitely a show, there’s a rawness to it that the polished performances lack.

The show takes place in a large square at the bottom of the village, with the hillside of lit houses as a backdrop. It features traditional Miao singing, dancing, and the famous “sister’s meal” ceremony, where women offer rice wine to guests. The drumming is the highlight - a group of men playing enormous bronze drums with a power that you feel in your chest.

The show is touristy, yes. There’s no pretending otherwise. But it’s also the best way to understand Miao culture in a single sitting, and the production values are genuinely impressive. The costumes alone are worth the ticket price.

Location: The performance square at the bottom of Xijiang village, near the main bridge.
Entry fee: $30-40 (CNY 220-280), depending on seat category.
Opening hours: One show per night, typically starting at 8 PM and lasting about an hour. Times vary by season.
How to get there: It’s a 5-minute walk from anywhere in the village center.
When to visit: Any night. Shows happen year-round, though they may be cancelled in heavy rain.
Insider tips: Book tickets in advance during Chinese holidays, especially National Day (October 1-7). The cheapest seats are fine - the stage is visible from everywhere. Arrive 15 minutes early to get a good spot. Don’t sit in the front rows unless you want to be pulled into the dancing at the end. The rice wine offered during the show is real and strong.
A woman next to me, a tourist from Shanghai, told me she had brought her grandmother to see the show. Her grandmother was Miao and had never seen the performance before. She cried during the drumming.

Basha Miao Village - The Last Gunmen

Basha is a small Miao village about 2 hours from Xijiang, and it’s famous for one thing: the men carry guns. Not modern guns, but ancient muzzle-loading rifles that they fire during ceremonies and festivals. The Chinese government has allowed the Basha men to keep their guns as a cultural exception, making them the last gun-toting tribe in China.

I arrived at Basha on a misty morning, and the first thing I saw was a group of men in traditional black clothing, each carrying a rifle over his shoulder. They looked like they had stepped out of a different century. The village itself is small, but it’s set in a beautiful forest of ancient trees, and the men’s hairstyle - a topknot with the rest of the head shaved - is distinctive.

The gun ceremony is the main attraction. The men fire their rifles into the air, and the sound echoes through the forest. It’s a bit theatrical, but it’s also genuinely fascinating to see a tradition that has survived against all odds. The village also has a unique tree culture: every newborn baby gets a tree planted in their honor, and when they die, the tree is used for their coffin.

Location: Congjiang County, about 2 hours by bus from Kaili or 1 hour from Congjiang Railway Station.
Entry fee: $14 (CNY 100).
Opening hours: 8 AM to 6 PM. The gun ceremony happens several times a day when tour groups arrive.
How to get there: Take the high-speed train to Congjiang Station, then a bus or taxi to Basha (30 minutes, $3/CNY 20). Or take a direct bus from Kaili (2 hours, $6/CNY 45).
When to visit: Any time, but the village is more atmospheric in the morning mist.
Insider tips: The gun ceremony is scheduled around tour groups, so ask at the ticket office when the next one is. The men will pose for photos for a small tip (about $1/CNY 5). Don’t touch the guns without asking. The village’s tree culture is more interesting than the guns, so take time to walk through the forest. The local specialty is a fermented bamboo shoot dish that is… an acquired taste.
I watched a young Basha man, maybe 20 years old, load his rifle with practiced ease. His father stood next to him, holding an older, more ornate gun. The son’s was newer. The father’s had more stories.

Xijiang Viewing Platform - The Postcard Spot

Every photo you’ve seen of Xijiang was taken from here. The viewing platform (Guanjingtai) sits at the top of the village, offering a sweeping view of the entire valley with its thousand stilt houses cascading down the hillsides. It’s the most photographed spot in Guizhou, and for good reason.

I went up there three times during my last visit: once at sunset, once at night, and once at sunrise. The sunset was crowded, with tourists jostling for position at the railing. The night view was spectacular, with the village lights twinkling like a galaxy below. But the sunrise was the one that got me. I was the only person there, and the valley was filled with mist that slowly burned off as the sun rose, revealing the village piece by piece.

The platform is accessible by a paved path that winds up the hill, or by a small electric shuttle that runs from the village center. The walk takes about 20 minutes and is steep in places, but it’s worth it.

Location: Top of the hill above Xijiang village.
Entry fee: Included in the village entry ticket.
Opening hours: Always open.
How to get there: Walk up the main path from the village center (20 minutes) or take the shuttle (about $1/CNY 5).
When to visit: Sunrise (around 6-7 AM depending on season) for the mist and the lack of crowds. Sunset is beautiful but packed.
Insider tips: The platform has two levels. Most tourists stop at the lower one, but the upper level has a better angle. Come with a tripod if you want night shots - the lights are worth it. The mist is most likely in the early morning, especially after rain. There’s a small tea house at the top that opens early; the owner makes a decent jasmine tea.
I shared the platform at sunrise with a young Chinese couple who were on their honeymoon. The groom told me they had come specifically for this view. He had proposed to her here a year earlier.

Tang’an Dong Village - The Terraced Rice Fields

Tang’an is a small Dong village about 30 minutes from Zhaoxing, and it’s famous for its terraced rice fields. The terraces climb the hillside in sweeping curves, and in September and October, when the rice turns gold, the effect is stunning. It’s less visited than the big villages, which means you might have the place to yourself.

I walked to Tang’an from Zhaoxing on a clear October morning, following a path that wound through the fields. The terraces were a patchwork of gold and green, with farmers working in the distance and the village’s drum tower rising above the rooftops. It was one of the most peaceful mornings I’ve had in China.

The village itself is small, with maybe a hundred houses, but it has a beautiful drum tower and a wind-and-rain bridge that spans a stream. The locals are friendly, and if you’re lucky, you might be invited into someone’s home for tea.

Location: About 8 km from Zhaoxing, in Liping County.
Entry fee: Free.
Opening hours: Always open.
How to get there: Walk from Zhaoxing (about 1.5 hours) or take a motorbike taxi (15 minutes, $3/CNY 20).
When to visit: September to October for the golden rice. April to May for the flooded terraces, which reflect the sky.
Insider tips: The walk from Zhaoxing is beautiful but hilly; wear good shoes. The best view of the terraces is from the top of the village, about a 15-minute climb. Bring water - there are no shops in the village. If you’re invited into a home, accept. It’s the best way to experience Dong hospitality.
An old woman in Tang’an showed me how to thresh rice by hand, beating the stalks against a wooden frame. She laughed at my clumsy attempts and then showed me again, slowly.

Zhenyuan Ancient Town - The Ming Dynasty Detour

Zhenyuan is not a Miao village, but it’s a worthwhile addition to any Guizhou itinerary. It’s a well-preserved Ming dynasty town on the banks of the Wuyang River, with old stone streets, temples, and a dramatic cliffside path that leads to a Taoist temple complex. It’s the kind of place where you can easily spend a day wandering.

I arrived in Zhenyuan on a Sunday afternoon, and the town was busy with domestic tourists but not overwhelming. I walked along the river, crossed the old bridge, and climbed the cliff path to the temple, which offers a view over the town’s black-tiled rooftops. The river was a deep green, and boats with red lanterns drifted past.

The town’s history is fascinating. It was an important stop on the ancient trade routes, and its architecture reflects a mix of Han, Miao, and Dong influences. The food is also excellent, with a local specialty of river fish cooked in a sour broth.

Location: Zhenyuan County, about 1.5 hours by train from Kaili.
Entry fee: Free to enter the town. Individual attractions cost $2-4 (CNY 15-30) each.
Opening hours: The town is always open. The temples and museums are typically open 8 AM to 6 PM.
How to get there: High-speed train from Kaili South to Zhenyuan (30 minutes, $6/CNY 45). From the station, take a taxi to the old town (10 minutes, $2/CNY 15).
When to visit: April to October. Weekdays are quieter than weekends.
Insider tips: The night view of the river, with the temples lit up, is beautiful. The boat ride on the river is worth the $8 (CNY 60). The cliff path to the temple is steep but short. Try the sour fish hotpot at a riverside restaurant. The town gets busy on Chinese holidays, so avoid those if you can.
I sat on the riverbank at dusk, watching an old man fish with a bamboo pole. He had been there for hours and hadn’t caught anything, but he didn’t seem to mind.

FAQ summary

Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village is the largest Miao village in the world, with over 6,000 residents and 1,400 stilt houses. Entry costs approximately $14 (CNY 100), and the village is best visited from March to October, with the most dramatic views at sunrise and after dark. The nearest transport hub is Kaili, reachable by high-speed train from Guiyang in about 40 minutes. China’s 240-hour visa-free transit policy covers Guizhou Province. WeChat Pay and Alipay are widely accepted, but carry some cash for rural areas. English is limited, so a translation app is essential.

FAQ

Q: Do I need a visa to visit Xijiang Miao Village? A: If you’re transiting through China to a third country, the 240-hour visa-free transit policy covers Guizhou Province, so you can visit without a full tourist visa. Otherwise, you’ll need a standard L tourist visa. Check the latest policy before you book, as rules change.

Q: How do I get from Guiyang to Xijiang Miao Village? A: Take the high-speed train from Guiyang North to Kaili South (about 40 minutes, $15-20/CNY 110-140). From Kaili South, take the direct bus to Xijiang (1 hour, $4/CNY 25) or a taxi (about $25-30/CNY 180-220). The bus drops you at the village gate, where you buy your entry ticket.

Q: Is Xijiang Miao Village worth visiting? A: Yes, if you want the iconic view of a thousand stilt houses on a hillside. It’s the most commercialized Miao village in China, but it’s also the most spectacular. If you want a more authentic experience, visit Langde or Zhaoxing instead, or combine all three.

Q: How long should I spend in Xijiang Miao Village? A: One night is ideal. Arrive in the afternoon, watch the sunset from the viewing platform, see the night lights, and catch the sunrise mist the next morning. If you’re short on time, a day trip is possible but you’ll miss the best views.

Q: What is the best time of year to visit Xijiang Miao Village? A: March to October offers the best weather. The rice terraces are green from June to August and golden in September and October. Chinese holidays, especially National Day (October 1-7), are extremely crowded, so avoid them if possible.

Q: What should I pack for Xijiang Miao Village? A: Comfortable walking shoes for the hills. A light jacket for the evenings, which can be cool even in summer. Earplugs for the thin wooden walls. And a translation app - English is not widely spoken here.

Q: Is it safe to travel in Guizhou as a foreigner? A: Yes, Guizhou is very safe for travelers. The main challenges are language and navigation, not safety. Keep your valuables secure, use official taxis or Didi, and you’ll be fine.

The Honest Wrap-up

Xijiang is a place you should see once, and then decide if you need to see it again. It’s the most accessible, most spectacular, and most commercialized Miao village in China. The night view is genuinely breathtaking. The morning mist is better. The main street is a tourist trap, but the side alleys are real, and the people are warm.

This list is for travelers who want the iconic experience without being completely herded. It’s not for people who want to avoid other tourists entirely - for that, go to Langde or Tang’an. It’s also not for people who hate hills. Your calves will feel this trip.

If you’re planning to go, here’s my final advice: book a guesthouse on the upper slopes, not the main street. Wake up early. Watch the sunrise from the viewing platform. Eat the sour fish soup. And when you’re tired of the crowds, take a day trip to Langde. You’ll thank me later.