Shengsi Islands Zhoushan: The Complete 2026 Guide

The ferry horn blasted twice, a sound that cut through the wet salt air and sent a flock of gulls screaming over the dock. I was standing at the stern of a passenger ferry out of Shanghai’s Wusongkou International Cruise Terminal, watching the skyline of high-rises dissolve into a gray haze behind me. In front of me, nothing but open water and the promise of an archipelago that most tourists to China have never even heard of.

That’s the thing about the Shengsi Islands. They sit about 60 kilometers off the coast of Shanghai, closer to the city than many of its own suburbs, and yet they feel like a different country entirely. The air is cleaner. The pace is slower. The fishing boats outnumber the cars. And the beaches, which rival anything you’d find in Southeast Asia, are empty enough that you’ll often have them to yourself.

I’ve been going back to these islands for years, and I’ve made every mistake a traveler can make along the way. I’ve booked the wrong ferry. I’ve shown up on a day when the seas were too rough to sail. I’ve paid tourist prices for seafood that locals get for half. This guide is everything I wish I’d known before my first trip.

Quick answer

The Shengsi Islands are a chain of 400+ islands off the coast of Shanghai, reachable by a 2.5-hour ferry ride from Shanghai’s Wusongkou terminal or a 1-hour ride from Zhoushan’s Sijiao terminal. The main island, Gouqi, is famous for its abandoned fishing village, Houtouwan, where vines have swallowed entire houses. Most visitors spend 2-3 days here, and a realistic budget is $100-150 per day including accommodation, food, and ferries. The best time to visit is May-June or September-October, when the weather is mild and the seas are calm. No visa is needed beyond your standard China tourist visa, and the islands accept Alipay and WeChat Pay everywhere.

The Short Version

If you only have 90 seconds, here’s the deal. The Shengsi Islands are not a polished resort destination. They’re raw, sometimes rough, and the infrastructure is basic. But if you want to see a side of China that’s disappearing fast - working fishing villages, abandoned settlements being reclaimed by nature, and beaches without a single hawker selling you a coconut - this is the place. Skip the day trip; it’s not worth the ferry hassle. Stay at least two nights, rent an electric scooter, and don’t try to see everything. Pick two or three beaches and one village, and let the rest happen.

How I Picked These

I’ve made seven trips to the Shengsi Islands over the past five years, each time staying longer than the last. I’ve been there in June when the weather was perfect and in August when a typhoon warning shut down all ferry service for three days. I’ve stayed in a $15 guesthouse where the owner’s grandmother fed me breakfast every morning and in a $200 hotel that was fine but forgettable. I’ve talked to ferry captains, seaweed harvesters, and a retired schoolteacher who now runs a small homestay and told me stories about the islands during the Cultural Revolution.

For this guide, I focused on places that are accessible to international visitors without a car, that offer something genuinely worth seeing, and that won’t require you to be fluent in Mandarin to enjoy. I’ve also included a few spots that require a bit more effort, because those are often the ones you’ll remember longest.

Comparison Table

Rank	Place	Best For	Approx Cost (USD)	Time Needed	When to Go
1	Houtouwan Abandoned Village	Photography, eerie atmosphere	Free	2-3 hours	Early morning or late afternoon
2	Shengshan Island	Island hopping, seafood	$20-30/day	Full day	May-October
3	Zhelin Beach (南长涂沙滩)	Swimming, sunset walks	$5 (¥35)	Half day	June-September
4	Gouqi Island Scenic Loop	Scenic driving, viewpoints	Free	3-4 hours	Any time
5	Donghai Fishing Village	Local culture, fresh seafood	Free	2 hours	Late afternoon
6	Daxie Island	Hiking, solitude	Free	Half day	Spring or autumn
7	Shengsi Fish Market	Food, local life	$10-20	1-2 hours	Early morning
8	Huaniao Island	Wild beaches, birdwatching	$15 ferry	Full day	May-June
9	Shili Golden Beach	Long beach walks	$5 (¥35)	Half day	Summer
10	Sunset Viewpoint at Ma’an Mountain	Sunset, panoramic views	Free	1 hour	Just before sunset

Houtouwan Abandoned Village - Where Nature Took the Town Back

The first time I walked into Houtouwan, I stopped breathing for a second. Not from exertion, though the path down is steep, but because I genuinely wasn’t prepared for what I was seeing. Whole houses, three and four stories tall, completely covered in thick green vines. Windows that had become empty eye sockets. Roofs that had collapsed under the weight of vegetation. And not a single person in sight, just the sound of wind moving through leaves and the distant crash of waves.

This was once a thriving fishing village with over 2,000 residents. In the 1990s, the younger generation moved to the mainland for better jobs and schools, and the village was slowly abandoned. Now it’s the most photographed spot in the entire archipelago, and for good reason. It feels like a post-apocalyptic movie set, but the mood is peaceful rather than sinister. The vines have turned the houses into something organic, like they’re growing out of the hillside itself.

The village sits on the western side of Gouqi Island. You’ll need to walk down a steep, uneven path that takes about 20 minutes. The path is fine for anyone with reasonable fitness, but wear proper shoes. The village itself is free to enter, and you can wander through the ruins for hours. Just be careful - some floors have collapsed, and the buildings are not safe to enter. Stick to the paths and the open areas.

The best light is early morning, when the sun hits the hillside and the green vines glow, or late afternoon, when the shadows get long and dramatic. I’d also recommend going on a weekday if you can. On weekends, the village gets busy with domestic tourists, and the sense of solitude disappears.

Shengshan Island - The Working Heart of the Archipelago

Shengshan is the second-largest island in the group, and it’s where the ferry from Shanghai first docks. Most tourists pass through on their way to Gouqi, but that’s a mistake. Shengshan has its own character, and it’s the most authentic fishing community in the whole archipelago.

The harbor is the center of everything. In the early morning, you’ll see dozens of fishing boats returning with their catch, and the docks become a frenzy of activity. Crews haul in nets full of swimming crabs, mackerel, and cuttlefish. Women sort the catch into plastic crates. Buyers from restaurants and markets haggle over prices. It’s chaotic, loud, and completely fascinating.

I spent a morning here just watching the boats come in. An old fisherman named Chen, who had been working these waters for 40 years, noticed me standing there and offered me a cup of tea from his thermos. We didn’t share a language, but we didn’t need one. He pointed at the boats, made a gesture like a fish swimming, and laughed. Then he pointed at me, made a camera gesture, and laughed again. It was the kind of moment that makes travel worth it.

The island also has a few small beaches and a scenic coastal road that’s perfect for scooter rides. The seafood here is cheaper than on Gouqi, and the restaurants are more authentic. Look for places that are full of locals, not places with English menus.

Getting to Shengshan is straightforward. From Shanghai, take the ferry from Wusongkou International Cruise Terminal to Shengshan’s Sijiao Terminal. The journey takes about 2.5 hours and costs around $30 (¥215) for a standard seat. From Zhoushan, the ferry from Sijiao Terminal takes about 1 hour and costs $15 (¥110).

Zhelin Beach - The Best Sand in the Archipelago

I’ve swum at beaches all over Asia, and Zhelin Beach holds its own. The sand is fine and golden, the water is clear enough to see your feet, and the beach stretches for nearly a kilometer. In the summer, it’s the most popular beach in the islands, but even at its busiest, it’s nothing compared to the crowds you’d find at any beach near Shanghai.

The beach is split into two sections. The southern section is the main swimming area, with lifeguards, changing rooms, and a few vendors selling drinks and snacks. The northern section is quieter and more natural, with fewer facilities but also fewer people. I prefer the northern end, especially in the late afternoon when the sun starts to set and the beach empties out.

Entry costs about $5 (¥35) in the summer season. Outside of summer, the beach is free, but the water is too cold for swimming. The facilities also close down, so bring your own water and snacks.

The best time to visit is late afternoon, around 4-5 PM. The sun is less intense, the light is beautiful, and you can watch the sunset from the water. There’s a small hill at the northern end of the beach that offers a great view of the whole coastline.

One thing to know: the beach is on the southern coast of Gouqi Island, about 15 minutes by scooter from the main town. There’s a parking area for scooters at the entrance, and the walk to the sand takes about five minutes.

Gouqi Island Scenic Loop - The Drive You’ll Remember

Renting an electric scooter on Gouqi Island was the best decision I made on my first trip. The island is small enough that you can explore most of it in a day, but the roads are hilly and the distances are too far to walk comfortably. A scooter costs about $15 (¥110) per day, and you’ll need to leave a deposit of around $30 (¥215).

The scenic loop takes you around the eastern half of the island, past fishing villages, terraced fields, and dramatic coastal cliffs. The road is well-paved and easy to navigate, and the views are spectacular. At several points, you’ll pull over to find a viewpoint overlooking the sea, with fishing boats bobbing in the distance and the hazy outline of other islands on the horizon.

The loop takes about three to four hours if you stop frequently. I’d recommend going clockwise, starting from the main town and heading east. This way, you’ll hit the best viewpoints in the morning light, and you’ll end up at the southern coast in time for a late lunch at one of the seafood restaurants.

There’s a section of the road that goes through a tunnel, which is dark and a bit spooky but also fun. And there’s a stretch near the eastern tip of the island where the road hugs the cliff so closely that you can reach out and touch the rock face. It’s the kind of driving that makes you feel alive.

Be aware that the scooter rental places require a Chinese ID or a passport, and they’ll hold your document as a deposit. It’s a bit nerve-wracking to hand over your passport, but it’s standard practice here. Just make sure you return the scooter before the rental shop closes, usually around 6 PM.

Donghai Fishing Village - Where the Sea Meets the Table

Donghai is a small village on the southern coast of Gouqi Island, and it’s the best place on the islands to eat seafood. The village is built around a small harbor, and the restaurants are clustered along the waterfront. Each one has a tank of live seafood out front, and you pick what you want to eat. It’s that simple.

I remember sitting at a plastic table outside one of these restaurants, watching the sun set over the harbor while a plate of steamed swimming crabs arrived at my table. The crab was so fresh that it didn’t need any seasoning. Just a little vinegar and ginger, and it was perfect. The total bill for two people, with three dishes and two beers, was about $25 (¥180).

The village is also worth exploring on foot. The houses are built into the hillside, with narrow alleys and steep staircases connecting them. There’s a small temple at the top of the hill, and the views from there are worth the climb. In the late afternoon, you’ll see women sitting outside their houses, cleaning seaweed or mending nets.

The best time to visit is late afternoon, around 5 PM, when the fishing boats return and the restaurants start setting up for dinner. The village is about 20 minutes by scooter from the main town of Gouqi, and there’s a small parking area near the harbor.

One tip: the restaurants here don’t have English menus. Use a translation app or just point at what you want in the tanks. The owners are used to this, and they’ll be happy to help you figure out how to cook it.

Daxie Island - The Hike Nobody Does

Daxie is a small island connected to Gouqi by a bridge, and it’s where I go when I want to escape the small crowds that do exist on the main island. There’s no real town here, just a few scattered houses and a lot of empty coastline. The hiking trail along the western shore is the highlight.

The trail starts near the bridge and follows the coast south. It’s not marked, and parts of it are overgrown, but it’s easy to follow if you stay close to the water. The terrain is rocky and uneven, so wear proper shoes. The reward is a series of small coves and beaches that you’ll have entirely to yourself.

I hiked this trail on a windy day in October, and I didn’t see another person for three hours. The wind was strong enough that I had to lean into it at times, and the waves were crashing against the rocks with real force. It was invigorating in a way that’s hard to describe. I sat on a rock for a while, just watching the sea, and I felt a sense of peace that I rarely find anywhere else.

The trail takes about two to three hours to complete, depending on how often you stop. There’s no shade, so bring water and sunscreen. And be careful near the edges - the cliffs are steep, and there are no railings.

Getting to Daxie is easy. From the main town on Gouqi, take the road west across the bridge. The trailhead is on your left, about 10 minutes after the bridge. There’s a small parking area where you can leave a scooter.

Shengsi Fish Market - The Smell of Fresh Salt and Chaos

The fish market in the main town of Gouqi is not for the faint of heart. It’s loud, it’s chaotic, and it smells strongly of fish and salt water. But it’s also one of the most authentic experiences you can have in the islands. This is where the locals buy their food, and it’s a window into the daily life of a fishing community.

The market is at its best in the early morning, around 6-7 AM, when the night’s catch is being unloaded and sold. The variety is astonishing. I’ve seen fish of every size and color, crabs with claws the size of my hand, prawns still twitching, and squid that changed color as they were sorted into baskets. The vendors are busy and not particularly interested in tourists, but they’re not unfriendly either. Just don’t get in the way.

Prices are cheap, especially if you’re buying in bulk. A kilogram of fresh shrimp costs about $5 (¥35). A large crab costs about $3 (¥20). If you’re staying in a guesthouse with a kitchen, you could buy your dinner here for less than $10 (¥70).

There are also a few stalls selling prepared food. I tried a bowl of fish ball soup that was simple and delicious. The fish balls were bouncy and fresh, and the broth was clear and savory. It cost about $2 (¥15).

The market is located in the center of the main town, near the bus station. It’s open every day, but the best selection is in the morning. By 10 AM, most of the good stuff is gone.

Huaniao Island - The Wild One

Huaniao, which means “Flower and Bird Island,” is the outermost inhabited island in the Shengsi group. It’s also the most remote and the least developed. There’s no paved road, no proper harbor, and only a handful of residents. Getting there requires a separate ferry from Shengshan, and the schedule is unpredictable.

But if you’re willing to make the effort, Huaniao rewards you with something rare in China: true solitude. The island has several wild beaches that you’ll likely have to yourself. The water is clearer than anywhere else in the archipelago, and the sand is untouched. I spent an afternoon here swimming in water so clear I could see the bottom 10 feet down, with no one else in sight.

The island is also a stopover for migratory birds, and in May and June, you can see thousands of them nesting on the cliffs. The birdwatching is best in the early morning, when the birds are most active.

There’s one small guesthouse on the island, run by a family that has lived here for generations. The rooms are basic, and the food is whatever the family catches that day. But the hospitality is genuine, and the experience of staying overnight on a nearly empty island is something you’ll never forget.

The ferry to Huaniao leaves from Shengshan’s Sijiao Terminal, but the schedule changes frequently depending on weather and demand. Ask at the terminal the day before you want to go. The journey takes about 1.5 hours and costs $15 (¥110). If the seas are rough, the ferry may not run at all, so have a backup plan.

Shili Golden Beach - The Long Walk

Shili Golden Beach, which translates to “Ten Li Golden Beach,” is the longest beach in the archipelago. It stretches for about 2.5 kilometers along the northern coast of Gouqi Island, and it’s the perfect place for a long, contemplative walk.

The beach is less developed than Zhelin, with fewer facilities and fewer people. There’s a small entrance fee of $5 (¥35) in the summer, but outside of summer, it’s free. The sand is a bit coarser than Zhelin, but it’s still pleasant to walk on.

I walked the full length of this beach one morning in June, and it took me about an hour at a leisurely pace. The beach was almost empty, and the only sounds were the waves and the occasional cry of a gull. At the far end, there’s a rocky headland with a small lighthouse. The view from the lighthouse back along the beach is stunning.

The beach is on the northern coast of Gouqi Island, about 15 minutes by scooter from the main town. There’s a parking area at the western end, near the entrance gate. The eastern end is less accessible, but you can walk there along the beach.

The best time to visit is early morning, when the light is soft and the beach is at its emptiest. Or late afternoon, when the sun sets over the water and the sky turns orange and pink.

Sunset Viewpoint at Ma’an Mountain - The Best View in the Islands

Every island has a sunset spot, and on Gouqi, it’s the viewpoint at the top of Ma’an Mountain. The mountain is the highest point on the island, and the view from the top is spectacular. You can see the entire island spread out below you, with the sea stretching to the horizon in every direction.

The viewpoint is a short walk from the road, about 10 minutes up a paved path. The path is steep in places, but it’s manageable for anyone with moderate fitness. At the top, there’s a small platform with a railing, and benches where you can sit and watch the show.

I’ve watched the sunset here three times, and it’s been different every time. Once, the sky turned a deep orange that seemed to set the sea on fire. Another time, clouds rolled in and turned the whole scene into a moody, dramatic painting. And once, the sunset was so clear and perfect that it looked fake, like a postcard.

The viewpoint is on the eastern side of the island, about 20 minutes by scooter from the main town. The road is steep in places, so make sure your scooter has enough battery. Get there at least 30 minutes before sunset to find a good spot.

One tip: bring a jacket. The wind at the top can be strong, and it gets cold quickly after the sun goes down.

FAQ summary

The Shengsi Islands are a ferry ride from Shanghai or Zhoushan, with the main access points being Wusongkou International Cruise Terminal in Shanghai and Sijiao Terminal in Zhoushan. The best time to visit is May-June or September-October, when the weather is mild and the seas are calm. A budget of $100-150 per day covers accommodation, food, ferries, and scooter rental. The islands are part of China, so the standard China visa rules apply, and Alipay or WeChat Pay are essential since credit cards are rarely accepted. English is not widely spoken, so a translation app is necessary. The most famous attraction is the abandoned village of Houtouwan on Gouqi Island, which is free to enter.

FAQ

Q: Do I need a special permit to visit the Shengsi Islands? A: No, the Shengsi Islands are a regular part of Zhejiang Province, and no special permit is required. You just need a standard China tourist visa. The islands are open to all international visitors.

Q: How do I get from Shanghai to the Shengsi Islands? A: Take a ferry from Wusongkou International Cruise Terminal in Shanghai to Shengshan Island. The journey takes about 2.5 hours and costs around $30 (¥215). Ferries run once or twice daily, so book your ticket in advance, especially on weekends.

Q: Is English spoken on the islands? A: Very little. Most locals speak only Mandarin or the local dialect. You’ll need a translation app like Google Translate or Pleco to communicate. That said, people are patient and helpful, and you can get by with gestures and pointing.

Q: Can I use my credit card on the islands? A: No, credit cards are rarely accepted. You’ll need Alipay or WeChat Pay, which are linked to your bank account or a prepaid card. Set these up before you arrive in China. Some places still accept cash, but it’s becoming less common.

Q: What’s the best time of year to visit? A: May-June and September-October are ideal. The weather is mild, the seas are calm, and the crowds are manageable. July and August are hot and humid, with a risk of typhoons. Winter is cold and windy, and many restaurants and guesthouses close.

Q: How many days should I spend on the islands? A: I’d recommend at least two nights and three days. This gives you time to explore Gouqi Island, visit Houtouwan, and take a day trip to another island. Any less and you’ll spend most of your time on ferries.

Q: Do I need a VPN for my phone in China? A: Yes, if you want to use Google, WhatsApp, Instagram, or any Western social media, you’ll need a VPN. Set it up before you arrive in China, as many VPN services are blocked. A SIM card from China Mobile or China Unicom will give you data coverage on the islands.

The Honest Wrap-up

The Shengsi Islands are not for everyone. If you need luxury resorts, English-speaking staff, and a polished tourist experience, you’ll be frustrated here. But if you’re willing to embrace a bit of chaos, to communicate with hand gestures and translation apps, and to find joy in empty beaches and abandoned villages, this is one of the most rewarding places in China.

I’ve been to the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Terracotta Warriors. They’re all incredible. But the Shengsi Islands are the place I keep going back to. They’re the place I think about when I’m stuck in traffic or staring at a spreadsheet. They’re the place that reminds me why I fell in love with travel in the first place.

So book the ferry. Pack light. Learn to say “thank you” in Mandarin. And when you’re standing on an empty beach, watching the sun set over the East China Sea, you’ll understand why I wrote this guide.